Logrono to Navarrete

Total distance today = 8 miles

Total ascent = 525 feet

Cumulative distance = 109 miles

Another fairly short and easy day. We walked about half a mile from our hotel to old town Logrono (not included in today's distance) to get back on the Camino de Santiago and followed it out on the other side. But, before we left old area, we came across the Fuentes Peregrinos. I can almost see pilgrims from hundreds of years ago soaking their feet after along day of walking. 

But since here was no water in the pool, and we had just started walking, a quick picture sufficed. 

Today was pretty much like yesterday.  Traveling between two towns over a short distance meant we didn't really leave the urban atmosphere for very long.

The path was either near or over roads for most of the morning. At one point we did walk through a nice park with a small duck/swan pond. 

And there were some pleasant views long the way. 

A reservoir and park

We came upon this informational sign that explained the beautiful, vibrant orange roses we noticed along the way for the last few days

There was a really cool mural painted on the walls of a tunnel under the A-12

Pilgrims

ET

Map of the Camino

A couple new path markers lead us out of Logrono...

...and into Navarrete. 

Shortly before entering Navarrete,we came upon the ruins of a 12th C pilgrims hostel. 

That's the Don Jacob winery in the background. They provided this picture...

Navarrete was a ghost town when we arrived. Not even any peregrinos. As we passed the 16th C Church of the Assumption...

...the door was open.  Upon entering, we couldn't see very much in the darkness, so David paid the euro to turn on the lights and this is what we saw...

Stunning.  To think this is all tucked away in a village church that hardly any one sees. 

After a shower and short nap,  a roam around town was in order.  The castle that used to be atop the mountain is gone, but the view from there is outstanding. 

Prior to leaving this morning, David applied a product called Compeed to his toe.  It acts almost like a second skin over the blister. This and some more "adjustments" to his boot, 

allowed him to make it to Navarette without the toe getting worse. But now the bad news.  The new boots, addressed to tonight's hotel, are stuck in Madrid customs.  The office is closed tonight, so we will have to wait til morning to get it straightened out. FedEx international support has no good ideas, despite their $344 shipping charges.  FedEx is closed in Spain on weekends, so the new boots may have to be returned to sender. Crazy. It wouldn't be a problem if we could buy new boots here, but they have nothing for sale anywhere in Spain larger than 45, equivalent to a US men's 11.5 Dave is wearing a US 12 wide and needs a 13, at least on his right foot

A word on boots in general. Dave has wide feet with narrow heels and has always had issues with boot fitment. He found the Merrell boots in 2010 in Munich while we were visiting Ocoberfest and the Oberamergau passion play. They have been great boots and Dave bought a second pair. Although he normally wears a size 11.5, he went with the12's to have sock space. Since then, these boots have comfortably summited Handies Peak, gone on backpacking trips with a heavy pack to places like Marroon Bells pass in Colorado, and were very comfortable. However, after the first 50 miles or so on this much longer hike, and although packing light, Dave's feet have "grown" at least a half size, especially the right foot.  This squeezed his toes, and with lots of downhills, led to a big blister taking over his small right toe. Something that small can end a hike, so we ordered bigger boots as noted above, transhipped through Jen's address, and Dave surgically expanded the boot as seen in the picture. That seems like it will work until mud and/or rain comes along, but just goes to show that best planning sometimes isn't enough.  

Oh, guess what my "word of the day" is... :)

This little piggie...

Total distance today= 6 miles

Total ascent today =

Cumulative distance= 101 miles. Yippee

Today was an "easy" day. Easy for me, but Dave has a really bad blister on his little toe.  Basically took all the skin off his toe (Sorry to gross you out). He cut out the side of his boot out for today's hike.  When we arrived in Logrono this afternoon, we tried several stores to see if there was anything more comfortable. No luck. His new Merrell boots should arrive at our next hotel tomorrow night.

Fortunately, the path was fairly level and either on flat pavement or good gravel paths. We said goodbye to Viana

And hello to Logrono almost at the same instant. Both towns were visible for most of today. The path was near, next to, or over roads all day. 

Even so, the walk was pleasant and the weather cooperated, sunny and not too hot. We finally lost the long sleeves. 

While the hike today was near, next to, or over roads...

...we still had some nice scenery. 

Logrono is the start of the Rioja wine region. We've had rioja wine with our dinners the last couple of nights. Not too bad. A good red table wine. To celebrate the vineyards, parts of the Camino in the area is red pavement. Red mulch might be better :p

Continuing into town, we came across this building, in front of a cemetery. Look at the name over the middle window.  I guess they roll you in the front, and spread you out back. 

Across the street, a stork was feeding its young. 

Another mile or so, we came to the bridge over the Ebro River into Logrono proper. 

Since we arrived shortly after noon (our earliest arrival yet). And since tonight's hotel room is not in the medieval area, we decided to have lunch down by the old church. We shared some tapas, checked our email and relaxed for about an hour. 

As we headed to our hotel we ran into Janet again. She looked happier and wore a cute dress and scarf. She opted for a hotel room today, had a nice hot shower and the luxury of a hair dryer. However, she is discontinuing her Camino in a couple of days. Staying in an auberge every night just is not a great way to travel. 

Tonight we are in a hotel listed in our itinerary as the AC Rioja. In reality, it's a city-style Marriott.  Nothing special but somehow rated three stars.  Definitely out of place in northern Spain.

Los Arcos to Viana

Total distance today = 11.5 miles 

Total ascent = 984 feet 

Total cumulative distance = 95 miles

Today we left the walled city of Los Arcos and walked 11.5 miles to the walled city of Viana.

Shortly after leaving Los Arcos we came to this cemetery.  The inscription over the portal reads: "you are what I once was, and will be what I am now".  Cheery thought of the day.

The first village, Sansol, was only 4.2 easy miles from our hotel. We had hoped to buy our picnic for later here, but the store wasn't open yet. No problemo. Onto the next village, Torres del Rio.  Well, that town is only a kilometer away. But wouldn't you know it - "the way of the Camino" kicked in.

See that village below?  That's Torres taken from just outside Sansol. 

But, by the time we followed the path around, this was the way into Torres del Rio.  You MUST go down, then you go up. 

We did pass an interesting Fuentes by the River. 

The cafe was open, and it was raining, so we decided to sit awhile and have an early lunch of - yep - jamon.  Our other choice today was chorizo. The spaniards love their ham so much they even have these. 

We ran into the mother/daughter pair from San Francisco again at the cafe. Our paths have crossed several times since the first day.  David kept them on the path early on the first day when they almost missed the first turn just outside of St Jean.  Our paths have crossed several times, but I give mom credit for getting up those mountains. 

After a brief rest, we continued on. As we left town, we passed a 12th C church, Iglesia de Santo Sepulcro. It's octagonal design is similar to the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem. The Knights Templar built this church. They were a key element of the Crusades, and most of their leaders were eventually burned at the stake in the early 1300's by the French king under an agreement with Pope Clement.  Later popes cleared them of the heresy charges. 

The path stayed while flat for a while.  And I found some more snails. 

Soon, however, we had a couple of steep ups and downs.  David's feet are not happy.  He's got a nasty blister on his little toe. He needs his new boots. They should be here by Monday. 

It looked like a big storm was headed our way. 

Good thing there were shelters available.

Our destination finally came onto view. 

That was the movie version of the view. This is what it really looked like. 

While the hike has not always had the idyllic scenery seen in the movie, "The Way", we enjoy almost all of it. Especially our hotel tonight, a restored palace, owned a one time by Señor Pujadas, the Spanish consulate to Manilla in 1916. 

It's right across from the San Pedro ruins. 

The other church in town is Iglesia de Santa Maria. It is 13thC. The doorway is magnificent, but the interior is breathtaking. When I was there, about a dozen of the parishioners were cleaning the interior.  This picture does not do it justice.

Another great dinner and now it's off to bed.